10 Tips For Good Tiling

By L. A. Gordon

Many people will have had an attempt at tiling in some form or other albeit a small repair or larger project. However, what, at face value appears to be a seemingly simple task of sticking squares or rectangular slabs on a wall, soon becomes an awkward challenge when obstacles appear that do not fall perfectly in line with the tile edge or irregular shapes have to be cut. The obvious choice is usually to cut the tile into smaller pieces and stick them around the obstacle in a kind of crazy mosaic fashion, which we all know is not a very professional finish. Below are a few tips that I use to achieve professional results every time.

1. The Right Tool For The Job

As in any craft, using the correct tool for the job will not only make your work easier but will also give you the best results. There are a variety of tools used by professional tillers; however, having all the necessary basic tools can be sufficient for good results.

You will certainly need:

Tile Cutter (standard manual type)
Tile Nibs: for snipping away small amounts of unwanted tile
Tile Saw: Hand-held saw similar to a hacksaw
Tile File
Notched Trowel: for spreading adhesive
Grout Spreader
Spirit level
Measuring Tape
Profile Gauge
Additional tools include:

Power tile saw (preferably water cooled)
Small angle grinder with an appropriate cutting disk
Hole cutter and tile drills
Tile rake: for removing grout/adhesive between tiles
Tile Removal Chisel: for removing existing tiles

2. How Many Tiles

Before buying tiles you will need to measure the area. At first this may seem quite challenging. Although some professional tillers can often tell at a glance how much tiles are required such skill comes with years of experience. However, the easiest way, is to measure the length and width of each section and then multiply the length by the width to give you the value in metres/square. Divide awkward shapes into smaller rectangles and apply the same equation. Measure each section this way and then add them all together to get the overall area in square metres. Always allow ten percent extra for wastage (five percent for mosaic tiles).

3. On The Surface

The surface to be tiled should be free from damp, physically sound (not crumbly or flaky), newly plastered walls should be sealed with a suitable sealant prior to spreading the adhesive (follow product instructions). Significantly uneven walls should be levelled using the appropriate plaster beforehand and should be completely dried before tiling.

4. Where to Begin

First, measure the distance across the area to be tiled or do a dummy run with the tiles, this will help you to decide on the best starting point. It is usually best to position the tiles so that you allow for cuts at both ends rather than starting with a whole tile.

If you are tiling to the level line of a bath or kitchen worktop, then it is usually ok to use this as your starting line, but be sure to measure vertically to anticipate how the top row will finish, so as to avoid having to cut very small strips at the end. Use spacers beneath the first row as this will help with minor adjustments and the resultant gap will give a key for sealants to grip.

5. On The Level

If you are not starting from a level surface, use a spirit level and draw a level line above the first row; use this as your starting line. It may be helpful to fix a straight timber baton on the wall to prevent the first row from sliding while the adhesive sets.

6. Where Are The Cuts

If tiling a whole room, begin with the wall furthest away as you enter the room, then tile the other walls up to it. This will obscure the cut edges from view (even if they are neat).

7. Stick Em Up

Using the appropriate sized notched spreader, evenly spread about a square metre of adhesive horizontally. Bed the tile, twisting slightly with even pressure to establish consistent contact. Continue the process paying particular attention to the alignment of the edges against the previous tile(s).

8. Spacers

If you are using spacers, insure that they are placed deep enough beneath the surface of the tile so they are not visible after grouting, alternatively, if you have enough spacers, use them on the outside of the tile two per joint. Then you can completely remove them once the adhesive has set (usually after an hour or two); ensure the tile is set rigid before removing them. Clean away excess adhesive between (and on) the tiles before the adhesive begins to set.

9. The Best Cuts

The easiest way to measure the cuts is to turn the tile over so that the glazed face is towards the wall, and the pre-formed edge is towards the corner. Then mark the back of the tile at the points that cross the previously fixed tile. Bring the markings around to the front of the tile; always allow room for the tile spacing before cutting.

10. Getting Around Things

When cutting around awkward shapes use a profile gauge to obtain the outline, mark it on the tile and verify using a measuring tape. Alternatively, make a cardboard template first and mark the tile once you are happy with the fit. Then place the tile on a flat, even surface and use the tile saw with gentle smooth movements. Do not rush or force the saw through the tile, just use enough pressure to allow it to cut at its natural rate. Patience is the key to avoid breaking the tile.

If you would prefer to have your tiling work undertaken by a professional, North London’s LA Gordon Carpentry & Building services will do it for you, hassle free. Visit http://www.lagordoncarpentry.co.uk for more information and to see the full range of services.

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